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Mount Tetnuldi (4858m) is a spectacular peak located in Svaneti, which is the most remote and untouched region of Georgia and all of Europe. It is a visually striking peak in the region, looming large over the isolated town of Mestia. The contrasting Tetnuldi peak to Mestia’s medieval towers give you the sense that you’re traveling back in time. The same feeling carries through during the ascent, with its wild and remote climbing routes. As you make your way to the summit, you’re surrounded by the pureness of nature, with no huts or infrastructure around you. This climb is the true essence of connecting to the mountain and all its presence.
The peak is situated in the Central Southern Caucasus region, making for one of the tallest peaks in Georgia. The first successful ascent on Mount Tetnuldi was led by Englishman Douglas Freshfield in 1896. In this region, this climb is a classic in the mountaineering community.
The ideal time for climbing Mount Tetnuldi classical route is from June-September. In this time frame, the weather proves to be more stable and the temperatures are mild. Also in this time, we are able to enjoy trails clear of deep snow, and the crevices become fully visible. When the crevices are visible, this makes the route much safer as we can carefully avoid them. You can climb our recommended prerequisite before heading to Svaneti, which is our tour here
Svaneti is truly a world within a world, fixed within its very own culture, language, and practices; all which have been carried on almost completely unaffected through the centuries. Fascination will overcome you when your eye takes hold of the ancient skyline, full of medieval towers looming over village houses. The 9th-13th century-built towers are fundamental marks of a culture that has strongly withstood the evolution of modernity. These tall and remarkable towers served as self-defense and dwelling structures during local conflicts. Just one of the intrinsically unique aspects of Svan culture still alive today.
The exotic region is situated deep amongst soaring mountain ranges, functioning entirely isolated from outside influences. This geographic position has rendered it almost impossible to conquer through history’s time. Floods of treasures sent from the lowlands of Georgia were sent to Svaneti temples, to protect from thievery and destruction during historic wars and invasions. This duty to protect, hailing from these delegated ancient roles, has been ingrained into Svan culture.
We take our guests to Svaneti year-round, in both mountaineering and ski-touring. These tours with us are incredibly unique, as we have been pioneering these mountains for more than a decade. Members of our team are from this region and understand the true soul of Svaneti. Guiding our guests through this region is an exceptional experience for both us and our guests.
Experience Recommended
Technically, climbing Tetnuldi is not difficult, however there are sections where previous mountain climbing experience is required. A great prerequisite for Tetnuldi could be climbing Mt. Kazbek with us, or any other experience with glacier walking and ice climbing up to 40 degrees.
Fitness Level Recommended
This mountain asks for great mental strength, physical endurance, and mountaineering experience. When climbing high altitudes, you should be physically fit. On the summit day, we will be climbing 1160m on high altitude in one day which takes a great amount of stamina. To prepare for the climb, you should climb other mountains with rigor such as Mt. Kazbeki, Mt. Blanc, Mt. Elbrus. You should also be doing some trail running. Climbing Mount Tetnuldi will be more enjoyable the more fit you are. Get motivated and start to train now so you will be ready to take on the adventure with us.
**This itinerary reflects the full package and schedule. Aspects such as accommodation, transportation, arrival, and departure are flexible to change according to your needs and requests.
Day 1
Driver meets you in airport (TBS or KUT) and transports you to hotel in arrival city (Tbilisi or Kutaisi). Check in and rest for the evening. If you prefer to go directly to Svaneti (depending on your travel time and arrival time), driver will transport you to Svaneti straight. (5 hours driving from Kutaisi, 9 hours driving from Tbilisi). If travel and weather conditions allow it, there is an option to fly from Tbilisi to Svaneti. In this case, we will plan accordingly.
Day 2
Early breakfast in hotel. Driver will meet you in hotel and transfer you to Mestia, Svaneti. Check in to hotel where you will meet your local Mountain guide. You will have an introduction and briefing about the plans for the days ahead. Weather conditions will be discussed at this point also. The guide will check to make sure you have all adequate equipment and clothing for climbing Mount Tetnuldi. This day will be reserved for renting any necessary equipment. Rest for the night
Day 3
Early breakfast in hotel. Meet with guide and driver. You will be transported to the top of Mount Tetnuldi Ski Resort, which is about an hour drive from hotel. At 3,000m, we will begin trekking towards the base camp. After climbing a 30 degrees couloir, we will meet a glacier, where we will proceed to put on the crampons and rope in. In 2 hours of walking across the glacier, we will reach the basecamp, located on a protected and beautiful plateau at 3700m. This camp is situated near the glacier lake, which makes for a beautiful scenery. We will set up the tents and prepare our camp for the next 3-4 days. Dinner and rest
Mestia altitude:
Top of Tetnuldi Ski Resort: 3000m
Mount Tetnuldi Base Camp altitude: 3700m
Vertical gain climbing: 700m
Travel time climbing: 5-6 hours
Day 4
We will spend this day acclimatizing and training. After an early breakfast we will proceed to a glacier next to the camp and climb up to 4,000m, where your guide will go through important demonstrations on climbing, equipment, and safety techniques. We will review crampon, and ice axe usage. There will be exercises for glacier walking and icy slope walking. All of these exercises will further build our foundation and confidence to reach the summit of Tetnuldi. We will have an early dinner/late lunch and rest early to prepare for early morning rising.
Day 5
After an early breakfast, we will gather and prepare backpacks and equipment to make our alpine start towards Mount Tetnuldi. At this point, we start the climb with headlamps. Before we reach 4,300m, the majority of the climb will be on low incline terrain. However, there will be one small section of increased incline lasting about 20 minutes. We will then need to cross several crevasses, then reaching the ridge from where the route becomes more technical. There will be drops on both sides of the ridge, where you will be able to view the green valleys below the pristine white glacier. The ridge is about 1KM long, where we will need to do some easy scrambling on the rock in easy short sessions. The ridge will become narrow and steep up to 40 degrees. It might also be icy depending on the conditions. Should it be icy, the guide will fix the ropes and you will proceed to climb on top rope. After 7-8 hours in total climbing, we will then reach the desirable summit, which you’ve been anticipating for this long. We will enjoy this moment and take the time to contemplate over the highest peaks of Central Caucauses’ surrounding us. Next, the 4-5 hour descent begins to the base camp the same route we ascended. Dinner and rest.
Mount Tetnuldi Base Camp: 3700m
Mount Tetnuldi Summit: 4858m
Vertical gain during day: 1160m
Travel time climbing: Typical time to reach summit is between 7-8 hours
Descent time: 4-5 hours
Day 6
Reserve day in case of bad weather on summit day. If we are unable to leave the hut and attack the summit, we will spend this day resting in the hut and reserving our energy to summit the next day.
Day 7
After breakfast, we will pack the camp and descend to the Tetnuldi ski resort. The driver will meet us at this point and transfer us back to hotel. Check in and rest
Day 8
Breakfast and check out from hotel. Departure day. Driver will transfer you from hotel to departure airport in Tbilisi or Kutaisi.
Day 1
Meet your local Mountain guide at the meet-up location in Mestia. You will have an introduction and briefing about the plans for the days ahead. Weather conditions will be discussed at this point also. The guide will check to make sure you have all adequate equipment and clothing for climbing Mount Tetnuldi. This day will be reserved for renting any necessary equipment you might need.
Day 2
Meet with guide and driver at the meet-up location. You will be transported to the top of Mount Tetnuldi Ski Resort, which is about an hour drive from hotel. At 3,000m, we will begin trekking towards the base camp. After climbing a 30 degrees couloir, we will meet a glacier, where we will proceed to put on the crampons and rope in. In 2 hours of walking across the glacier, we will reach the basecamp, located on a protected and beautiful plateau at 3700m. This camp is situated near the glacier lake, which makes for a beautiful scenery. We will set up the camp and prepare for the next 3-4 days.
Mestia altitude:
Top of Tetnuldi Ski Resort: 3000m
Mount Tetnuldi Base Camp altitude: 3700m
Vertical gain climbing: 700m
Travel time climbing: 5-6 hours
Day 3
We will spend this day acclimatizing and training. After an early rise we will proceed to a glacier next to the camp and climb up to 4,000m, where your guide will go through important demonstrations on climbing, equipment, and safety techniques. We will review crampon, and ice axe usage. There will be exercises for glacier walking and icy slope walking. All of these exercises will further build our foundation and confidence to reach the summit of Tetnuldi. We will rest early to prepare for early morning rising.
Day 4
After an early rise, we will gather and prepare backpacks and equipment to make our alpine start towards Mount Tetnuldi. At this point, we start the climb with headlamps. Before we reach 4,300m, the majority of the climb will be on low incline terrain. However, there will be one small section of increased incline lasting about 20 minutes. We will then need to cross several crevasses, then reaching the ridge from where the route becomes more technical. There will be drops on both sides of the ridge, where you will be able to view the green valleys below the pristine white glacier. The ridge is about 1KM long, where we will need to do some easy scrambling on the rock in easy short sessions. The ridge will become narrow and steep up to 40 degrees. It might also be icy depending on the conditions. Should it be icy, the guide will fix the ropes and you will proceed to climb on top rope. After 7-8 hours in total climbing, we will then reach the desirable summit, which you’ve been anticipating for this long. We will enjoy this moment and take the time to contemplate over the highest peaks of Central Caucauses’ surrounding us. Next, the 4-5 hour descent begins to the base camp the same route we ascended.
Mount Tetnuldi Base Camp: 3700m
Mount Tetnuldi Summit: 4858m
Vertical gain during day: 1160m
Travel time climbing: Typical time to reach summit is between 7-8 hours
Descent time: 4-5 hours
Day 5
Reserve day in case of bad weather on summit day. If we are unable to leave the hut and attack the summit, we will spend this day resting in the hut and reserving our energy to summit the next day.
Day 6
In the morning we will pack the camp and descend to the Tetnuldi ski resort. The driver will meet us at this point and transfer us back to the meeting point in Mestia.
Equipment Needed
*Please contact us for pricing on groups larger than 2 people
*Please contact us for pricing on groups larger than 2 people
