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Climbing Mount Ushba North Summit is truly an exceptional experience in Georgia. Certain mountains in the world really need no answer to the question “why should I climb it?” That is the world famous Mount Ushba, located in the Svaneti region of Georgia. It is truly the most legendary and epic mountain in history, embodying both heroism and tragedy. It’s coined the “Matterhorn of the Caucasus.” To climb North Ushba proves to be no easy achievement. During the Soviet Union time Mount Ushba was the birthplace of technical mountaineering in the region, which would in turn become a local heroic feat. Locals would gather at the villages, greeting the Mount Ushba climbers with feasts and celebrations. Old locals named the double summited mountain as the “wretched place,” indicating its strange and intimidating presence. A prestige quickly developed around climbing Mount Ushba, making it a dream to climb for every alpinist. This mountain represents a profound history and offers a magnificent viewpoint to the surrounding highest peaks in the Central Caucasus.
In addition to its history and significance, Mount Ushba’s remarkable beauty and incredible shape produce a deep magnetism that draws climbers in from all different corners of the globe. Mount Ushba radiates an aura of superiority, leaving a deep impact in the psyche of spectators. It’s two horned figure pointing to the sky almost signifies the shape of a crescent moon, making it one of the most unique and most beautiful mountains in the world.
The first attempted ascent to Climb North Ushba was a group led by Englishman Douglas Freshfield. Their attempt however, was unsuccessful. The first successful climb on North Ushba was John Cokkin in 1988. After more than a decade, in 1903, a group of Europeans (Austrian, German, and Swiss) led by B. Rickmers successfully climbed the South summit.
Our guides at The Alpine Project are deeply inspired by Mount Ushba and have made regular climbs on the most challenging routes of Mount Ushba, and completing the fastest ascents in single days. As athletes and IFMGA/GMGA mountain guides climbing this mountain regularly, we will provide the most safe and professional climb experience for you.
There is two summits of Mount Ushba, North (4700m) and South (4710m). Both have their respectable difficulties. This tour will take you through the classical route to reach the North Summit, which is the less difficult of the two. We also offer tours to climb South Ushba, the more difficult route.
The ideal time for climbing Mount Ushba North Route is from July-September. In this time frame, the weather proves to be more stable. However, this mountain has a microclimate and attracts bad weather more frequently than others. This is a large aspect of what makes this mountain difficult.
Experience Recommended
The classical route to climb North Summit is a technical alpine snow and ice climb. The climb proves to be an extremely demanding climb, requiring prior experience in mountaineering and ice climbing. To make this climb on North Ushba, you should be able to climb 60 degree ice and you should be in top shape physically. In addition, you should be acclimatized before the climb. (For this, we can offer a climb Mt. Tetnuldi in Svaneti prior to your Ushba climb.) This is a very wild climb, there is no huts. Because of this we will be making the camps and carrying the equipment.
Fitness Levels recommended
You must have an extremely good fitness level with experience climbing expert to advanced level mountains.
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